My youngest needed a raincoat so I set my sights on the Moiano coat by StraightGrain patterns. The design is for a retro style Spring/Summer coat with hood or flat collar, buttons or zipper plus the option of welt or patch pockets. I imagined it would work great in a lightweight waterproof fabric with hood, welt pockets and a nice bright lining.
Fate had other ideas though and on my trip to Simply Fabrics to buy the aforementioned lightweight waterproof fabric I came across this beautiful (not lightweight) double-sided wool fabric bonded with waterproof pul layer and there was no turning back.I contemplated drafting a much simpler more modern design which probably would have been more suitable for the fabric, but as I already had the Moiano pattern I forged ahead with some adaptations.The fabric had a will of its own, and so much body no amount of pressing seem to have any effect. It was also quite bulky so joins where there were multiple layers of fabric were very tricky. Consequently I skipped the idea of welt pockets. I also omitted the lining because double sided fabric as cheerful as this should definitely not be lined.I did however want to make the inside as lovely as the outside. French seams or flat-felled seams were out because of the difficulty of the fabric weight and unpressability (made up word but I’m sticking with it) so I decided to bind all the seams with self made bias binding instead.I also used a bit of bias binding to add a hanging hook.To try to keep the finish as nice as possible I handstitched the hem, and, as pressing wasn’t having any effect) I also blind stitched the bound zipper edges down to the inside too.
I made a size 4 in width grading to a size 5 in length (and arm length) but I probably could have added even more length as I’d prefer a coat to have a bit more growing room.