Now that the Harriet Bra
by Cloth Habit (with a few tweaks!) is a tried and tested pattern I decided to try and adapt my well fitting full band pattern to create the same fit in a partial band style.
I did this by re-tracing my pattern pieces and adding 6mm of seam allowance to the 2 outer/lower cup pieces and removing it for the cradle pieces where they would meet the cups. I then removed the 2cm from the bottom of the cradle piece which then separated into a central gore and two side cradle pieces.
I also had to change the construction order sewing the cups first, then the band and wing pieces including adding the band and underarm elastic. Next the band/wing pieces and central gore were sewn to the cups. At this point I then added the wire casing turing it under and topstitching to finish the bottoms of the cups and channel the wire.
For materials Karu from Studio Costura kindly let me choose some materials from her shop to showcase them, so I chose to use the mint lace bra kit but also ordered a navy bra elastics and findings kit to swap in and create a strong contrast to the mint lace.
The cups and bridge pieces are lined with white bra lining fabric overlaid with the stretch mint lace all from the kit, and for the wings I used the white powernet but also overlaid it with the stretch lace.
For a finishing touch I added a vintage bejewelled button that I inherited from my late grandmother’s collection.
For the matching knickers I used the Grace panties pattern by Ohhh Lulu which is designed for a combination of stretch knits and wovens. I happened to have a small piece of silk in a colour that exactly matched the lace which seemed like such a happy coincidence I had to use it. This time I chose to add elastic to the leg openings, using navy for one and clear elastic for the other.
In more lacy goodness I also attempted the Watson set again (in September) this time reading the size chart correctly (doh!). Somehow with I managed to get the sizing wrong and failed to line the cradle properly. This time with a larger size and a stable cradle I got a much better fit, and a very comfy bra in colours that make me happy.
All the materials for this set were from Elise patterns which have now sadly closed.