Another round of Battle of the Stitches: competitive sewing that isn’t really competitive just a nice mutual motivation/inspiration sort of a thing. This time we chose a vintage sewing theme which was perfect as I’d just picked up this gem of a late 50’s/early 60’s coat pattern from a fabric consignment store in Pike Street Market, Seattle. For this round I’ll be joined by:
Olu from Needle and Ted who will be sewing a denim jumpsuit straight out of the 70’s.
Nina from Fliegfederei who is also making a 1960’s style coat, but her’s will be self-drafted.
Sara from Made by Sara will also be joining us and sewing a dress from a 70’s pattern.
I made view A of the coat exactly as the pattern suggested. When I say suggested I pretty much mean it as I soon learnt from the instructions provided that every home sewer in the 60’s must have had the experience level of a master tailor. None of the gentle step by step photos/illustrations to coax you through the process that I’ve become accustomed to using modern patterns. The instructions for all the versions of the 3 garments fit onto one page and needed a fair bit of guessing and googling to decipher. It called for a lot more hand sewing than I’m used to and some stitches I’ve not used before but was pleased to learn, such as a french tack. (I learnt how using this tutorial)The pattern called for denim or gabardine, but as I wanted this to be a warm winter coat I used a loose weave wool combined with scraps of wool for interlining. This caused me quite a lot of problems, some with the give in the loose weave wool (thankfully all those hand sewn steps helped with this) and some with bulkiness, especially with the piping that continued round the front of the coat and onto the facing. If I was making it again I would definitely cut separate facings for the front of the coat to help it sit flatter.
I lined the coat with yellow cotton with polyester lining for the sleeves. It pained me not to use mustard which would have picked up the flecks in the main fabric but it probably would have pained me more to buy mustard lining fabric when there was perfectly good yellow fabric in the cupboard.The bonnet pattern pieces were actually missing from the pattern envelope so I had to draft them using the layout diagrams as reference. I really liked the unusual shape of the double peak at the back of the bonnet. I ignored what seemed like unnecessarily complicated construction method suggested by the pattern, so it was a quick make, which is just as well as S was not too keen and I imagine it will be mainly destined for the dressing up box.